[Kelt]

I would say this is shopping for butches, but the truth is it will work for anyone.

The idea mentioned earlier of wearing someone else's clothes and then trying to replicate the feel of them is pretty good, but I think we can get it even closer.

What I have found works well (and quickly) for me is to measure it out ahead of time. Sizes on labels vary widely and the sad truth is that the more expensive the garment the more likely it is to show a 'vanity' size on the label.

I take an item that I know fits me, or whoever you are shopping for, very well and measure the heck out of it in the places that matter. I measure it as I would find it on the hanger or laid out, this is step one to figure out whether or not it is worth trying on. For more fitted items, I highly recommend going through the hassle of trying on because it is less hassle than returning it later if there is something not quite exactly the way you want it. For more casual maybe less form fitting or made of more relaxed fabrics, this may be enough. Try it yourself and find out. If you are shopping for someone else, I would say get the things that are a little less particular or plan for the possibility of a little tweak at the tailor, which may be needed anyway.

Take down these measurements:

Shirts:

Neck. Really critical if it is to be worn with a tie, otherwise up to 1 inch extra, closer is better for overall hang. Take this measurement with it buttoned all the way up. Applies to other necks as well, crew, vee, polo, etc.

Shoulder seam to seam, the more accurate this is the better the whole thing will look with the understanding that you are working with a known good fit item otherwise things like different sizes of chests and hips can change all that.

Across the bottom of the shirt where the hips will hit. This depends on if it will be worn out or tucked in. If out, it needs to be larger, if tucked you can get away with some spread at the bottom because it will be tucked in.

Sleeve, 4 different measurements here. From shoulder seam to end of cuff, this is a really fast elimination tool if you are looking hanging shirts, if there is no shoulder seam, go with the traditional center of neck to end of cuff, still quick.

For short sleeves, measure that too for a couple of reasons. If you are in a mens section usually they are made for someone generally taller most bio females so the sleeves are longer. If it is a sewn end at the sleeve, it can be hemmed shorter. If you are like me and don't really like showing off your upper arms too much you want to make sure they are long enough, you can't lengthen them. When I was heavier than I am now I also wanted to measure the width of the bottom of the sleeve so that it would not bind, especially on polos, if it is an issue look for sleeves that are not banded.

Overall length, from the base of the neck to the very bottom.

Especially important on things like polo shirts, these can be way too long in mens, it might work better to try women's (it's basically the same thing, although the color choices are different) or, for myself with knit tops I have good luck in the boys area, the overall length and sleeve length work well for my type. And a heck of a lot cheaper too!

I know these lists seem onerous from the outside, but you only have to do it once or whenever you have a size change. It really narrows things down quickly to the most likely candidates.

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<edited by Tech Admin at user request>

Okay, onto pants:

Again, quick on the hanger or table stuff here

Inseam, if it says 32 it probably is. OR, your out thrifting or going vintage and it shrank so now it is really 29 (seriously, Levis 501's shrink 3 inches in length). Think about this when buying new too, will it shrink? What is the real inseam you want? On that note, hemming is a really inexpensive alteration ($12-$14) if you just found some really great wool trousers for $10 in a vintage shop that would be $100 new somewhere.

Rise, how far from the crotch to the waistband? You will probably have 3 different choices, dress pants and trousers, jeans, and shorts or other casual wear.

Waist, side to side. This will be affected by rise, the lower the waist, (shorter rise) on bio women that usually translates into a wider waist size.

Hip, side to side. I usually find the lower pocket attachment point and measure there. If it is too snug there the pocket will usually gap some which means that on dress pants it will show the pocket lining. Big no.

Special note on shorts, be sure to measure the inseam on these too, as with shirt sleeves, if in a mens department they are made for usually taller people. If they are fairly plain they can be hemmed, no big deal. If they are cargo shorts or have other embellishments, deal breaker. Here is a tip I discovered by accident. For cargo shorts with a shorter inseam try marine clothes. No kidding, I guess the yachting set likes their shorts about three inches shorter. They are the perfect length for me, try Marine West or OP.

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<edited by Tech Admin at user request>

So, a couple of other things I do to minimize the pain. Have this list of measurements in your wallet or phone and keep an tape measure in the car. I also have my tailors price list with me. I took a picture of it and keep it in my phone.


<edited by Tech Admin at user request>

This way, when I am out if I spot a really good deal on something I need (especially thrifting) I can decide if it is still a great deal after I have paid for whatever tweak it needs to make it just right, sleeve shortening on long sleeves that are split is more than short sleeves, maybe you need a little more room at the bottom of a shirt that is going to be tucked in, add a gusset? If you have the price list handy you can see what the total cost will really be. I have damn near everything tweaked a little here or there, but still save a ton of money this way.

Also, go ahead and keep a list of what you need in your wallet or phone. When you are looking in your closet you may think ‘I could really use a dark blue button down’ but when you are in a shop with someone or just passing by it is easy to forget what is really going to fill in the gaps in the wardrobe vs what looks cool right now. I usually have a list of three or four things on hand and it helps me remember to go ahead and look for that thing, both filling the spots and not wasting money on yet another thing that doesn’t go with anything else.

I don’t really care for shopping and this helps take the sting out by getting me real tangible results when I do go. Now that it is written out, it looks like a lot of trouble to go to, it isn’t, it is actually easier. If you are shopping for someone else you will have a much better chance of getting something that will fit right and be really appreciated by the person you are doing it for.

So, fill in the blanks. Tell me your tips and tricks. I’ve probably forgotten a few things and will come back when I remember.