For the love of Kayaking

[Blaze]

Gear Checklist for Sea Kayaking
Basic List for Day Trips
Boat & Gear
___ kayak w/ bulkheads or flotation
bags
____paddle
___ spare paddle
___ PFD
___ whistle
___ pump (with float)
___ spray skirt
___ flares
___ tow rope
___ paddle float
___ headlamp or waterproof
flashlight
___ waterproof strobe
___ rescue sling
___ VHF radio
___ extra battery
___ first aid kit
___ wetsuit
___ pogies
___ chart
___ chart case
___ compass
___ tide tables
___ weather radio
___ binoculars
___ rescue knife (on PFD)
___ waterproof watch
___ dry bags
___ repair kit
Clothing for Paddling
___windbreaker
___windpants
___wool, fleece, or neoprene socks
___synthetic long underwear
___synthetic (quick-drying) shorts or bathing suit
___fleece jacket or wool sweater
___hat(s) to provide protection from rain, wind,
cold
___sandals, watershoes, or old sneakers that can
get wet
___ fingerless gloves
Personal Items:
___sunglasses
___sunhat
___ sunscreen
___water bottles
___snacks
___lunch
___strap for glasses (if needed)
___allergy medicine (if needed)
___medications (if needed)
___waterproof(ed) camera (optional)
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________

[Blaze]

Kayak Touring Safety Checklist and Precautions
Kayak touring can be a rewarding activity if you have adequate paddling and navigational skills for the trip you are doing, if you are using sound equipment that is suitable for the paddling conditions you anticipate, and if you use common sense and take certain precautions. It is an activity that demands sound judgment and caution. This is always the case, no matter how experienced you are.

The following information outlines basic equipment needs and precautions for paddling. It is meant solely as an outline of reminders for experienced paddlers and does not purport to be a teaching or learning tool.

Equipment Checklist

Before you launch, always make sure you have the following:

kayak in good condition
plenty of secure buoyancy (inflated float bags or dry bags filled with gear) in bow and stern
sturdy paddle
paddle leash or tether
spray skirt that fits you and your kayak
lifejacket or personal flotation device (PFD) and whistle
paddling clothing suitable for the weather conditions and the water temperature
sea sock
bilge pump
accessible signaling device such as flares
self-rescue aids such as a paddle float
accessible spare paddle (minimum of 1 per group)
compass
maps and charts in waterproof chart case
water bottle
In any but the most benign conditions, also consider:

flashlight or headlamp (even if you are only planning a daytime trip)
sun hat and sunscreen
rain gear and extra clothing in a waterproof bag
tow line - 25 feet or longer
knife or multi-purpose tool
waterproof matches or lighter
first aid kit
tide and current tables, if appropriate
VHF marine radio or weather radio
Basic Precautions

The greatest danger to sea kayakers paddling in cold water is HYPOTHERMIA. Cold water kills! Learn about hypothermia. Dress appropriately. Consider a wetsuit or drysuit with adequate insulating garments when paddling in cold water. Dress for the water temperature, not the air temperature.

Thoroughly familiarize yourself with your boat. Make sure you can pop off the spray skirt and wet exit the kayak. This is especially important with new gear or equipment you are unfamiliar with. Remember, if you are using unfamiliar equipment, it may handle in a different manner than the equipment you are accustomed to.

Always wear your PFD and use your sprayskirt. Weather and water conditions can change quickly. If your sprayskirt is stashed in the kayak and your PFD is lashed to the deck, it will likely be too difficult to put them on when you need them.

Avoid paddling alone

Make a habit of carrying safety equipment. It will be easier to carry if you store it in one waterproof bag.

Leave a float plan. Let someone know where you're putting in, where you plan to take out, and when you plan to return. Leave a full description of your car.

Get a weather forecast each day you are out. Continually check the weather during your trip.

Use the proper equipment. Be sure you are using equipment for the purpose for which it was designed.

Know the principles of navigation and seamanship.

In warm weather or in the tropics, be aware of dehydration and heat exhaustion. Carry plenty of potable water and keep a quart bottle within easy reach. Carry buffered salt tablets.

Special notes for novices

Start gradually in moderate weather, close to shore, with an experienced companion. Experiment with strong winds only when they are blowing toward shore.

Develop your paddling skills, including turning and bracing.

Learn and practice a self-rescue method appropriate for you and your boat, including deep-water re-entry.

Practice a group rescue so you can help others.

Read all you can on the subjects of sea kayaking, weather, oceanography and cold water survival.

PRECAUTIONARY NOTES

Make sure you are familiar with how to deal with the following situations that can occur in open water. Consult local experts or available literature for additional information on these important subjects.

WEATHER

Wind

Avoid paddling on windy days, especially when whitecaps are visible, until you thoroughly appreciate the effect of winds on the water and kayak handling.

Wind can:

1) upset a kayak and make it difficult to re-enter

2) blow your kayak away from you after an upset

3) create unmanageable waves

4) prevent you from holding a course

5) slow you down or stop you

6) make it difficult to turn

Fog

Fog can result in sudden and total disorientation. You will need a compass, but you may gain some orientation from sounds of beach surf, bells, fog horns, etc., as well as from steady wave and wind direction.

CURRENTS

You will encounter two principal types of current on the sea: reversing tidal current and continuous ocean current.

Strong current can aggravate conditions caused by adverse weather, particularly when current and wind are opposing. The sheer force of their flow can also cause difficult eddy and wave conditions even on calm days.

Precautions:

1. Read your chart to help identify danger points.

2. Use any available information to estimate favorable current, and time your passage or crossing for that period.

3. Paddle in current under controlled conditions to familiarize yourself with its effect.

4. Exercise caution when the current and wind direction oppose each other.

TOPOGRAPHY

Topography affects wind and water conditions in shallows, beach surf, headlands, cliffs and river mouths.

Shallows: Waves become steeper and break heavily on shallows. Avoid those areas when waves are large or strong currents are forced to flow over them.

Surf: Waves become steeper and break on beaches and shoals. Avoid landing in surf with a loaded kayak. Avoid surf on rocky beaches.

Headlands: Conditions are frequently more difficult off headlands with increased wind (funneling), accelerated current, and re-bound waves. Seas become chaotic.

Cliffs: Cliffs limit landing sites and can cause chaotic rebounding wave conditions.

River mouths: Difficult wave conditions occur when a river outflow runs against the waves.

PEOPLE HAZARDS

Watch for powerboats, ships, tugboats with barges, sailboats, all other watercraft and float planes. Make yourself visible and never assume you have been seen or have the right of way. Cross shipping lanes only at right angles and do so quickly. Never underestimate the speed of large ships.

LAKE PADDLING

With the exception of the tides, large lakes pose most of the difficulties and dangers of the sea. Waves, however, are steeper and more likely to break than on the sea.

RIVER PADDLING

Sea kayaks are often used on slow-moving rivers that are relatively free of obstructions and significant hydraulics. The main current is always going downstream, but eddies along the shore and behind obstacles create a situation where a localized current is going upstream. Crossing the eddyline between the main current and the localized current in an eddy can result in an upset if a paddler is not prepared for the immediate change in current direction.

Summary

The basis of safe sea kayaking is sound judgment, self-responsibility and technical competence. Join a club, take a class, read books and/or consult local experts to learn all you need to know about the sport.

Have a great time paddling!

[Blaze]

Compact waterproof digital cameras like Pentax Optio W-series (WP, WPi, W10, W20, W30) or Olympus SW-series (720, 770) are popular among paddlers. They may not offer the highest image quality among point-and-shoot cameras, but they still produce decent pictures. Most importantly, you can photograph in conditions where other cameras are better kept in a dry case or box. However, shooting on water from a kayak or canoe requires some extra efforts and practice from a paddling photographer.



I have been sharing my experience with Pentax Optio WP and W10 in this blog for a while. Please check the links below. Here is another list of tips which comes to my mind in the response to the above e-mail:

1. Use the automatic mode
I do not have any special settings for my camera. On water I use exclusively the P (program) mode. Of course, in addition to the P mode I use the movie mode and interval drive mode quite often.
You can program the green button to do useful adjustments without a need to go through a setup menu. I am using two functions assigned to the green button: exposure correction and, much less often, white balance setups. Typically, I underexpose my shots to avoid overexposed areas with wash out details. Coincidentally, it shortens the exposure time which helps to avoid blurry pictures, but this is not a main purpose of this adjustment.


2. Keep the camera steady
This is the most important tip. However, it is not so easy when paddling, especially, when water is not calm. Ideally, you should hold the camera in both hands. In addition, it is quite easy to shake the light and small camera just by pressing a shutter button.

3. Use a paddle shaft to stabilize the camera
Here is a short video clip demonstrating how I am doing it. This technique really helped me when I was starting to paddle a tippy Sisson Nucleus kayak. You can achieve two goals: to stabilize the camera and to stabilize your kayak. You have your paddle ready for bracing. This technique does not work with strong, gusty winds.
You can go further with this idea and attach or mount your the camera more permanently to your paddle - see a camera cradle by Mark Sanders.


4. Use a self timer
The 2 second selftimer available in Pentax Optio is very useful to avoid shaking the camera when pressing the shutter button. I recommend it, especially, when you are holding the camera with one hand (shooting on an extended arm or from some unusual angles).

5. Keep your lens clean of condensation, water drops, water residue
I keep my camera in a small neoprene pouch attached to my life jacket and usually do not have problems with water or dirt on my lens. The camera is always on a tether. Shooting with a camera mounted on a deck and exposed to splashes is another story.

6. Pay attention to light and sun position
Try to shade you camera lens from a direct sunlight to avoid a lens flare. Do not shoot against the sun.
You can expect the best "sweet" light for shooting when the sun is low, so after the sunrise and before sunset. Do not expect too much from this camera in low light conditions, but do not give up with shooting as soon as the sun is down. Consider shooting some silhouettes or water reflections then.


7. Use flash
I use flash to add some light to objects in my fore plan. Usually, a soft flash option works better for a kayak deck.

8. Shoot multiple frames
Don't limit yourself to a single shot for a given scene. Repeat the shot. Try different angles, horizontal and vertical format. You will increase your chances to get that great shot. Digital memory is cheap. You can always erase unsuccessful pictures later.



9. Photoshop ...
Downloading pictures from the camera to your computer is not the end of your work as a photographer. Use Photoshop or other image editing software to post process your pictures. Most often, I rotate my pictures to make horizon horizontal, adjust the exposure with levels, crop and resize them, and, finally, apply some sharpening. You cannot save completely blurred pictures in Photoshop, but you can improve most of them.

10. Practise
There are no reason not to take and use the camera wherever you go. It is small and waterproof. Experiment and have fun.
Time to to time it is useful to browse through the camera manual. You may find something new and exciting in a jungle of all these options and settings.


More tips?
Could you share tips from your experience with a kayak or canoe photography? Are your on water pictures worse than these shot on land?

Related posts:

Pentax Optio W20 Waterproof Camera Review, Tips, and Sample Photos
Kayak Photography: Using Your Paddle to Stabilize the Camera - Video Clip
7 Tips on Kayak Photography: How Did You Shoot It?
No Viewfinder? 10 Tips on Shooting Pictures without Viewfinder
Is Pentax Optio W10/W20 the Paddler's Camera? Many Boats, Many Cameras ...
Kayak Photography Links - Tips and Hints for Paddling Photographers

[Blaze]

Kayaks are ideal for wildlife photography
Related Articles
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge Tours
Kayak Vacations in Washington State
Acadia Kayak Tours
National Wildlife Refuges in Montana
How to Kayak in Broad Channel, New York
With their ability to glide silently through the water and access places that are difficult to reach on foot, kayaks are an ideal vehicle for wildlife photographers. In a kayak, photographers are able to observe and capture images of animals on shore or in the water without placing themselves in danger or disrupting the natural habitat. Because of the obvious dangers of water to expensive camera equipment, approach kayak photography carefully; preparation and attention to safety will make for smooth paddling and a successful photo session.
Step 1
Choose a wide, stable kayak. The greater the width of a kayak, the less likely it is to tip or wobble on the water, which reduces the likelihood of camera shake and water damage. Select a kayak with a wide opening to allow easy access to your camera and equipment, and choose a wide seat for comfort during hours of waiting for the perfect shot. Keep in mind that kayaks that are ideal for photography are not necessarily built for speed but have lower price tags--look for recreational models such as the Old Town Otter or Dirigo models, which are wide and lightweight. Avoid sit-on-top models, which are more likely to tip.
Step 2
Practice paddling without the camera. If you are a novice kayaker, spend some time in your kayak before setting out with expensive photography gear. Experiment in different water conditions to gauge responsiveness, tracking, ease of turning and maneuverability in high winds and waves. The more comfortable you are with your kayak, the easier it will be to control both the boat and the camera.
Step 3
Protect your gear and yourself. To ensure that your expensive camera and lenses do not suffer damage from sea spray or capsizing, invest in high-quality, waterproof cases. Aquapac makes cases that are waterproof and allow you to shoot through a clear plastic screen. Some have neck or wrist straps and come in models that fit everything from point-and-shoot cameras to professional SLR cameras. Pelican's hard cases are excellent for safe storage of lenses and camera bodies when they are not in use. Hard cases can be strapped to the decking strips on the bow of the kayak or stored between your legs. Always wear a personal flotation device and use a paddle leash, and stash an extra paddle in your kayak.
Step 4
Plan your route. Although you will happen upon unexpected photo opportunities as you paddle, it is helpful to have a general idea of a route and the shoreline geography. This is particularly important in case conditions change rapidly and you need to put in quickly. Visit your local DNR office for maps and for help identifying spots where wildlife are likely to gather.
Step 5
Locate an ideal vantage point and prepare to wait. The key to great land-based wildlife photos is patience; the same goes for shooting from a kayak. As you paddle, look for a spot with a clear view of the shore. In windy conditions, you might need to drop a small anchor or find a tree or rock to keep your kayak from moving. In calm waters, simply paddle to an ideal spot and adjust position occasionally to account for drifting.
Step 6
Shoot with lenses and filters that are appropriate for the conditions. The Canadian Nature Photographer website recommends an F2.8 70-200mm lens with auto focus and vibration technologies for wildlife photography. The site also recommends that you "Protect the front of your lens from water and salt spray with a UV or polarizing filter." The filters will also reduce water reflections.
Step 7
Use the fastest shutter speed possible based on your desired aperture and ISO speed--anything less than 1/60th of a second will likely be too slow. A quick shutter speed is necessary to account for inevitable kayak vibrations and to capture wildlife on the move. Vivid Light Photography recommends that you keep subjects level in the frame and use your body as a brace to reduce shake.
Fish & Wildlife Programwww.APUS.edu
Environmental Science Degree with aFocus on Fish & Wildlife Management
Canon Project Imaginationwww.youtube.com/Imagination
Watch the Final Film 'when you findme' Inspired by Canon User Photos.
Kayaking Yellowstonewww.geyserkayak.com
Explore The Beauty Of YellowstoneWith a Custom Guided Sea Kayak Tour
Canoeing And Kayakingwww.OutwardBound.org
Life-Changing Canoeing Adventures.Sign Up for a Free Catalog Today!
Ads by Google
Things Needed
Kayak
Camera
Waterproof case
Personal flotation device
Paddle leash
Extra paddle
Location map
Tips & Warnings
Bring adequate food and water for long trips
Use a hat and sunscreen to reduce glare and increase comfort
References
The Canadian Nature Photographer: How to Take Photographs from a Kayak
Vivid Light Photography: The Joys of Kayaking and Photography
Resources
Old Town Recreation Kayaks
Aquapac Waterproof Camera Cases
Pelican Waterproof Camera Cases
About the Author
Elizabeth Smith has been a scientific and engineering writer since 2004. Her work has appeared in numerous journals, newspapers and corporate publications. A frequent traveler, she also has penned articles as a travel writer. Smith has a Bachelor of Arts in communications and writing from Michigan State University.

[Blaze]

PHOTOGRAPHY WHILE KAYAKING
Photo Tips
*Fill the view finder with your subject. Resist the temptation to take those shots where you have to point to the print and declare that the tiny black spot is not just a speck of dust. Either get closer to the action, choose a longer focal length, or just enjoy the moment and look for a better opportunity.

*Photography is not target practice. Do not automatically center the subject in every picture. Instead use the "rule of thirds" for composing most of your shots. This means placing prominent elements 1/3 in from the edge of the viewfinder.

*Wood kayaks can be devilishly difficult to photograph well. That nice glossy layer of varnish between the camera and the wood is trying to reflect every light colored object in the area, including the sky. The solution is to use a polarizing filter. In fact, this filter is useful for most outdoor photography taken during the middle of the day. Want to make those tropical plants in Hawaii look lusciously green, clouds pop from the sky, or the rainbow over Seattle look more intense? Then reach for the polarizing filter.
*The best time of day for great photos is often around sunrise and sunset. This is due to more even lighting containing warm, rich colors. Neither film nor digital camera sensors can handle harsh, high contrast light as well as the human eye and people naturally react more positively to warm colors.

*You don't have to make people face into the the bright midday sun and squint. Give them a break by putting the sun behind them and use a flash to add light to their faces. If you have a camera that can add just enough light (called "fill" flash) to reduce the shadows, by all means use it. This technique is also useful in shady forests scenes with spotty sunshine.

*Unless there are dramatic clouds, avoid capturing overcast skies in your photos. Instead use your time to get up close to your subjects (e.g. people, flowers, or animals).

*Simplify the background. Complex backgrounds are distracting. Choose a different angle, put a dark prop in the background, get closer, choose a longer lens, or use a very large aperture to blur the background.
Use motion blur (and a tripod) to soften moving water and make the shoreline or shoreline objects stand out.

*Emphasize action using motion blur. Use a slow shutter speed to blur the background and pan with your subject to provide some sharpness for the subject and help it stand out. Another method is to again use a slow shutter speed combined with a flash to isolate the subject from the background.

*Shooting a kayak photo against a dark cliff or band of fir trees often results in the kayak being horribly overexposed if I let the camera's meter do it's thing. For this situation, set your camera to underexpose by one f-stop or more if your subject (i.e. kayak) does not fill most of the screen. When my camera gives me the choice, I prefer to use a spot meter to set the exposure rather than guess at how much to underexpose.

*Photos of people, animals, and flowers usually look better when taken in diffused light. A bright thin overcast is often the best condition for taking these photos.

*Get the camera to eye level with your subject. Let's face it, how your kids' hair is parted is not that interesting. As adults we don't like getting down on the ground, but that's the secret.
Try unusual viewpoints, either exceptionally low or high. Shoot straight down off a pier or get in the water and put your camera one inch above the surface.

*Take vertical format shots once in a while. They look nice hanging on the wall.
Believe it or not, cloudless skies and sunsets are not all that interesting. In fact, many photos that include the sky benefit from nice clouds.(example)
Emphasize the subject by using a telephoto at a wide aperture (e.g. f2.8) to minimize the depth of field. This will blur the background and help the subject stand out.

*Equipment Choices and Techniques
In photography there is an old saying "f8 and be there". Choose a camera that will always be ready to capture the magic moments that make great photos. On the water this often means having an easily operated water resistant camera. A camera stuffed in a dry bag usually misses out. While there are many cameras to chose from having an overflowing abundance of features, many of those features are useless on the water or the ergonomics are so poor that they might as well not exist. Look for optically sharp lenses, optically fast lenses, shutters with no time lag, and spot metering or easily adjusted exposure compensation.

*I find a zoom lens of about 35mm to 135mm to be the most useful. Compositions on the water change quickly and there is often little time to adjust position or change lenses. Anything longer than 135 mm is difficult to hold still enough to get a sharp image, especially with point and shoot lenses which tend to be very slow at their longest focal length. Anything wider than 35mm makes it hard to get the bow of your own boat out of the picture.

*It's nice to have both a waterproof point and shoot camera for fast or wet action and an SLR for more deliberate photography. It's not necessary for the waterproof action camera to have telephoto capabilities. While I drag around a tripod for my on-shore photography, it's not the easiest object to stuff into a loaded boat. I store it inside a nylon fabric case to keep it from scratching up the inside of my boat and the case makes sliding it in among the gear bags much easier.

*The most dramatic improvement you can make in indoor flash photography is use bounce flash techniques. Generally this means using a pivoting head, accessory flash mounted on the hot shoe. You also need to be able to turn off the built-in flash. The camera you choose needs to have a hot shoe, flash controls, and a suitable flash offered by the manufacturer. This does not have much relevance to kayaking, but hey, who does not use their camera for other purposes?

*Keeping Things Dry
A waterproof camera is a great tool for capturing dramatic photos in wet conditions. I have an old Nikon dive camera that is compact, waterproof, and takes excellent photos. Being fixed focal length at 35mm, I have to get up close to my subject. That's not such a bad thing because those photos are often the most interesting anyway. I can fire it one handed in waves and surf with no worries. A leash or a float on the strap is a good idea.

*The biggest issue with this camera is keeping water drops off the lens. My first line of defense is a press-on cap that covers the lens when not in use (on a leash). Second I use a water repellent (Rainex) to help the water roll off. I prefer a small water drop or two in the photo to a bleary smear. Rainex is not used directly on a coated lens element but either on the glass port or a filter. Last I carry a Rocket Bulb (rubber squeeze bulb) to blow water off or a synthetic hand towel to blot the water away. You can try blowing drops away with your breath, but this usually fogs the lens for a short time.

Another option is to use a waterproof dive case for a regular camera. I have no direct experience with these. I have noted reviews however suggesting that the cheaper cases soften images somewhat, especially in glare situations. These cases usually have drawbacks like having to turn the camera on before assembly and no way to make adjustments to flash, exposure settings, or polarizing filter. Unfortunately most of the better cases are made for diving and are really too large for general kayak use.

One can use a dry box like a Pelican case strapped on deck for easy access to a regular camera. I have taken many photos this way and it works OK. The camera stays in the box if water is hitting the deck however. Be sure to use a foam lined box, lid included, to keep sun from cooking your camera.

I usually keep my SLR enclosed in a dry-bag and placed on my deck or in my lap. I pull this camera out in decent conditions. I try to anticipate when good photos are likely to happen. Sometimes I paddle ahead of the group in order to catch them in a pleasing composition. Back of head photos are not the greatest unless the paddlers are facing something dramatic. Inside the bag I have more synthetic towels and desiccant. A lens hood is very useful for keeping water drops off the front element. In fact, I often do not replace the lens cap during intermittent shooting. The hood keeps the dry bag sides from contacting the lens element while it is temporarily stored away.

For me at least, euro-style paddles work a lot better than Greenland paddles for photographic outings. The latter leaves my hands constantly wet and drips water all over the cockpit area. In calm conditions I can paddle with a "Euro" and maintain completely dry hands. This is a much better situation for non-waterproof cameras.

Taking sharp photos
When I say sharp, I mean images that are razor sharp when printed at least as large as 8 inches by 10 inches. First, use a much higher shutter speed than you would use on land. To get that high shutter speed use a fast lens (e.g. f2.8 max aperture) wide open or a high iso setting. Beware though, that high iso settings on digital cameras often leads to objectionable image noise, especially with less expensive cameras.

Use the sharpest lens that you can afford. There can be quite a difference among lenses. Some older lenses that worked fine with film yield soft results on digital SLR's because of the different technology involved. Telephoto zoom lenses on consumer grade point and shoot cameras tend to be rather poor and are so slow as to be almost useless in a kayak. In general I stay away from lenses slower than f4.5.

If possible get up close and use a short focal length lens. Long focal length lenses will amplify movement causing soft images. Besides, high quality short lenses are much more affordable and will likely account for most of your photographs anyway.

Use a vibration reduction/image stabilization type lens (could be a budget buster).

What to do when things go horribly wrong
If you drop your camera in the water, immediately remove the battery. Do not try to find out if the camera still works. Doing so could short out the electronic components. While you are at it, remove the memory card which is likely fine. Dry the camera and place it in a warm dry spot with good air circulation. It may take a week to dry out. How do I know? Trust, me, I've been there. If it is a high value camera, contact the manufacturer as soon as possible for further instructions. It's likely that they will want you to get it to them as soon as possible. In the days of mechanical cameras it was suggested to flush the camera with clean water. With all of the electronic content of today's cameras I don't believe that is any longer a good procedure.

This covers only the basics of a complex subject. The digital camera industry is moving at a torrid pace. I'm afraid trying to make equipment recommendations beyond the basics would prove futile. Also your needs and budget are likely to be different than mine. If you have questions, feel free to contact me. I have included two photography review links at the right which might prove useful to you. The first, DP Review has very detailed reviews for a huge number of cameras. They do a good job. Second is Bjorn Rorslett's Nikon Equipment Reviews for Pros. He identifies which Nikon equipment, including lenses, will produce professional results.

[Blaze]

New Item out! Not sure what I think about it yet but they do have a Demo going on...

[Blaze]

Missing Kayakers in Cosco Bay found dead
I'm not sure if many of you have been following this story but it is one that happens all too often. This time it hits closer to home and makes headlines here in Atlanta because one of the kayakers, an eighteen-year-old woman, is from Georgia.

Two young women, trying to paddle in conditions they could not handle and conditions their kayaks were not designed for, were pulled out of the water three and a half miles offshore on Casco Bay, Maine.

Both were “unresponsive” when found, airlifted to Maine Medical Center and later pronounced dead.

From current reports, the two women were doing a short, one-mile, paddle from Peaks Island to Ram Island. They were spotted making land on Ram Island but became missed later that day.

The reason I want to write about this story is because I see and hear about this kind of thing all the time. As a trainer, it is also something I have done many seminars about with local paddling clubs and Atlanta based R.E.I co-ops.

I get enthusiastic novice paddlers, all the time, wanting to paddle their ten and twelve foot kayaks to some of my most challenging offshore locations.

When I talk about rescue skills and open water training, folks eye’s glaze over and the response I get is; “Ah, I don’t need to learn that kind of stuff!”

So, the warning I give is simple: Do not overstep the boundaries of your kayaking skills or the limits of your kayaking gear. Unless, of course, you are a fish! This applies just as much to short, hour-long trips as it does to multi day adventures.

It also applies to paddling on local lakes as much as offshore kayaking. If you cannot swim back to the shoreline, consider it “open water” and open water skills are required.

The two women died from hypothermia because they probably did not plan accordingly for the weather conditions and the limits of their kayaking gear. They were paddling in 46 to 48-degree water temperatures with out the proper clothing and they took off in kayaks that were not designed for unprotected conditions. The marine forecast called 20 mph winds and a small craft advisory had been issued.

I do not know these women, so I can’t tell you what their current level of open water experience was but I can venture to guess that they had no proper open water training. I say this because those with proper training and experience would not have done this paddle with out the appropriate paddling gear to prevent hypothermia - neoprene, dry top and pants or even a layer of heavy fleece.

As well, to be paddling 12-foot kayaks (most kayaks this size are designed to be paddled in protected water only), in weather conditions that warrant a small craft advisory is suicide. But, it happens all the time.

Just because you bought a kayak that "looks" sea worthy or the sales person has told you that they paddle this kayak at the beach all the time, does not mean it can handle conditions like the two women found themselves facing.

A sea kayak you will not find at Wal-Mart, BJ’s, Bass Pro Shops or even some R.E.I co-ops. Just because it says, “Ocean Kayak” on the side, does not mean it is designed to be paddled on open ocean.

The adventure of paddling open water is one of exhilaration, pleasure and respect. And with the proper skill set, a sea kayak can be easily paddled and controlled in the conditions that the two women found themselves in.

Understanding wind and tides are a part of the training. My best guess would be that, as they left Ram Island, to return home, they found the wind and the tides taking them in the wrong direction and could not control their kayaks. They became tired, panic set in, then one of them probably capsized and they did not have the rescue skills to get her back into her kayak and the second woman capsized.

Both were found floating in the water about one mile apart. They were over three miles off shore from Cape Elizabeth and had drifted over five miles from Ram Island. The kayaks had been found the previous day.

When enjoying the fun and adventure of kayaking, it’s all too easy to be lulled into a state of self-assuredness when the distance to be paddled is not very far. The distance to Ram Island from their launching point was one mile. They may have understood the risk they took, being in 48-degree water or paddling in strong winds, “But…” they probably said to themselves; “…it’s only a mile!”

Now, my question to every kayaker out there, how many times have you said the same thing?

[The Oopster]

I already have crossbars on the top of my car where is the best place to get something to help hold the yak?

[pajama]

Originally Posted by The Oopster

I already have crossbars on the top of my car where is the best place to get something to help hold the yak?

Oops I'm sure Blaze will have better info, but if you already have the crossbars here's what I think.

You can buy some pipe insulation at a home supply shop for cheap. It comes with a split up it and is easy to cut. You can use that to wrap your crossbars to protect the yak. Then the things I've read say don't use a ratcheting type tie down because it can exert too much pressure and warp the yak. The fancy shmancy "kit" I bought has what a friend called motorcycle tie downs? They are a spring loaded buckle with teeth in it that lets you pull the strap tight. I'm not sure where to get these, but I bet the same home supply place would have something like it.


Then some sturdy S hooks to hook them in to your fender/undercarriage.
That's basically what's in those kayak kits, but I bet you can get them cheeper. My kit ran almost $40.

Hope that helps.
A

[The Oopster]

Originally Posted by pajara

Oops I'm sure Blaze will have better info, but if you already have the crossbars here's what I think.

You can buy some pipe insulation at a home supply shop for cheap. It comes with a split up it and is easy to cut. You can use that to wrap your crossbars to protect the yak. Then the things I've read say don't use a ratcheting type tie down because it can exert too much pressure and warp the yak. The fancy shmancy "kit" I bought has what a friend called motorcycle tie downs? They are a spring loaded buckle with teeth in it that lets you pull the strap tight. I'm not sure where to get these, but I bet the same home supply place would have something like it.


Then some sturdy S hooks to hook them in to your fender/undercarriage.
That's basically what's in those kayak kits, but I bet you can get them cheeper. My kit ran almost $40.

Hope that helps.
A

Thanks

bought the insulation the other day and i already had some tie down straps but bought a couple more in case i need some for work

now i just need to come up with a cart system. I actually have a little dolly on wheels I just need to find a crate

[Sachita]

Originally Posted by The Oopster

I already have crossbars on the top of my car where is the best place to get something to help hold the yak?

I have two large ocean 11 foot kayaks. I was able to get both of them in my cargo van myself, however when i traded it and bought my Escape (suv) I attempted to get one on top to tie it down. I just don't feel comfortable doing this and even though they make a padded system to hold them up there its the weight of trying to get them up there alone. Often I go out by myself.

I just had a hitch put on and out a 5 X 8 trailer on lay-away. It has a ramp and I'm going to have something welded for the kayaks and a storage box. This way i can put camping gear and my bike underneath. This was a problem in the van because once the boats were in I couldnt fit anything else but maybe a few small coolers.

I am an experienced outdoors woman. Still I take no chances and often I am outdoors a lone. I always call someone, like my sister and let her know where i am at and many times email maps to her. I pack extra things in case of emergency. You never know what could happen. Cold water can be deadly. It's not a bad idea to talk to people who have already kayaked in the area you want to go.

[MsTinkerbelly]

We have a two seater kayak that we bought at a boat show...very heavy duty material, and it blows up! We are able to store it easily in the RV and it is ready to go with very little effort.

We have run the Kern river in it, and also taken it in the lake and in the ocean. Several hundred dollers and worrth EVERY penny.

[The Oopster]

Originally Posted by Sachita

I have two large ocean 11 foot kayaks. I was able to get both of them in my cargo van myself, however when i traded it and bought my Escape (suv) I attempted to get one on top to tie it down. I just don't feel comfortable doing this and even though they make a padded system to hold them up there its the weight of trying to get them up there alone. Often I go out by myself.

I just had a hitch put on and out a 5 X 8 trailer on lay-away. It has a ramp and I'm going to have something welded for the kayaks and a storage box. This way i can put camping gear and my bike underneath. This was a problem in the van because once the boats were in I couldnt fit anything else but maybe a few small coolers.

I am an experienced outdoors woman. Still I take no chances and often I am outdoors a lone. I always call someone, like my sister and let her know where i am at and many times email maps to her. I pack extra things in case of emergency. You never know what could happen. Cold water can be deadly. It's not a bad idea to talk to people who have already kayaked in the area you want to go.

I have someone I check in and out with when i go out exploring anywhere.

I also have neighbors here that know if I'm not home by midnight something is up. I also tell them if I'm out playing so that the alert by be made earlier or if I'm not coming home at all so the whole forest doesn't end up looking for me.

If I have access i log into latitude also

I will find out today how well i can lift it on top. I did snag my step ladder from home!

[Blaze]

Forgive the ad commercial, but this video shows that sometimes you can be lucky! And Doctor Mary Neal is now a believer, she wrote a book called "To Heaven and back"
http://video.foxnews.com/v/163241318...king-accident/