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Information on River Safety:

RIVER SAFETY

Top 10 River Safety Tips

1. Tell someone where you are going, when you expect to return, and where to call if you don't.
2. Make sure that your water skills and experience are equal to the river and the conditions.
3. Never boat alone. Always have at least one (preferrably two) other boats with you on a river trip.
4. Wear a Coast Guard approved type III-V, properly adjusted lifejacket at all times when you are in or near the river.
5. Know your limits of swimmers rescue and self rescue on rivers.
6. Know when and how to swim for the eddy.
7. Reduce injuries by wearing protective foot wear and proper clothing designed for river recreation.
8. Be prepared for extremes in weather, especially cold.
9. Know about hypothermia and how it can affect you.
10. Plan your trip and stick to your plan.
International Scale of River Difficulty

Flat Water
A - Pools, lakes, or rivers with velocity under 2 MPH.
B - Rivers with velocity 2-4 MPH.
C - Rivers with velocity over 4 MPH. May have sharp bends or obstructions.
Whitewater
CLASS I - Moving water a few riffles and small waves. Few or no obstructions.
CLASS II - Easy rapids with waves up to three feet, and wide, clear channels that are obvious without scouting. Some maneuvering is required.
CLASS III - Rapids with high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. Narrow passages that often require complex maneuvering. May require scouting from shore.
CLASS IV - Long, difficult rapids, with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in very turbulent waters. Scouting from shore is often necessary, and conditions make rescue difficult. Generally not possible for open canoes. Boaters in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to Eskimo roll.
CLASS V - Extremely difficult, long and very violent rapids with highly congested routes that nearly always must be scouted from shore. Rescue conditions are difficult and there is significant hazard to life in event of a mishap. Ability to Eskimo roll is essential for kayaks and canoes.
CLASS VI - Difficulties of Class V carried to the extreme of navigability. Nearly impossible and very dangerous. For teams of experts only, after close study and with all precautions taken.
Essential Canoeing/Kayaking Equipment and Gear

Endlines - Installed on the bow and stern, a line size of 3/8" diameter and 15' long is optimal. Endlines should be stowed to prevent entanglement but be immediately accessible in the event of a mishap.
Endtanks/Endbag - Many canoes/kayaks come with built-in flotation in the bow and stern. The flotation should contour the end of the boat whether it is foam block or an inflatable bag.
Water Bottle - Be sure to drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids. Dehydration results from excessive water loss. Take at least one quart of water per person per day.
Bailer - Scoop or sponge used to remove lose water from the craft.
Spare Paddle - always carry a spare paddle in case yours is lost or breaks. It may be fastened to the canoe but should be quickly accessible in case of an emergency.
Flotation Bags - To work best the bags should fit the hull snugly with little or no air spaces. Tie the bags securely in the craft to prevent them from popping out.
Thigh Straps - Usually made out of two inch nylon webbing, thigh straps give the paddler more control when maneuvering the craft. Optional class II, recommended class III and above.
Seats or Thwarts - Kneeling provides a lower center of gravity and stability through the triangulation of the legs in the bottom of the craft. The lower the height of the seat the more stability can be achieved. Ten to twelve inches above the bottom of the craft is good.
Throwline/Throwbag - Sixty to seventy feet of soft braided 3/8" polypropylene line to be used for rescue purposes.
Knee Pads - Usually made out of soft foam rubber, knee pads should protect the knees while kneeling. Also, they should affix the knees firmly to the hull. This increases the paddler's ability to maneuver the craft.
Choosing River Clothing

Cold Water
Like standing in a cold shower, cold water can drive the breath from a person upon impact with the water. It disorientates, totally robs a person's strength, quickly numbs the arms and legs, and within minutes the resulting severe pain can cloud rational thought. Finally, hypothermia (exposure) sets in, and without rescue and proper first aid treatment, unconsciousness and death may result. Experts consider water below 70 degrees F to be cold. Some experts use the "100 Degree Rule". If the air and water temperature combined to less than 100 degrees a wet or dry suit is mandatory and the river difficulty is considered one class more difficult than normal (i.e. Class II becomes Class III).
To protect against the effects of cold water, the paddler should select and layer clothing properly. One should know how to spot a hypothermic accident before it happens. Always plan a trip appropriately. Lastly, good paddling skills and equipment can often help the paddler avoid a situation which may lead to hypothermia.
Cold Weather Clothing
Helmet - Wear a good plastic or fiberglass helmet. Make sure that it protects your temples. A helmet is recommended for open canoeists on any river Class III or above.
Whistle - A must for communications. The sound of a whistle carries over the roar of the river and much further than that of the human voice.
Pouch - For storing valuables including car keys for the shuttle car and money for an emergency phone call.
Lifejacket - The lifejacket (PFD) should fit snugly, yet allow freedom of movement. A vest type jacket (type III) is more comfortable to wear, offers better protection to the lower back, and insulates better in cold weather than the inexpensive horse collar jacket (type II).
Dry/Wetsuit - Made of rubberized material the drysuit seals the paddler in a water tight shell. Normal paddling clothes can be worn underneath it. Made of neoprene the wetsuit traps and insulates a thin layer of warm water next to the body. Both suits should protect the high heat loss areas of the arm pits, crouch, and neck.
Sweater - Worn underneath the drysuit. Wool is good. Polypropylene is better. Avoid cotton. It's ability to "wick" moisture will actually make you colder. Layer your clothes so you can put on or take off layers if you get too hot or cold.
Knife - (optional) A knife may be carried to free the paddler in case of entrapment.
Safety Rope/ Throw Bag - Many experts carry a nylon sling with a carabiner or a mini-throwbag which can quickly be used to rescue another boater.
Booties - Wet suit booties with rubber soles are an ideal choice for cold weather. Also, wet suit socks worn inside rubber-soled sneakers or plastic sandals provide good protection.
Pogies - Usually fastened directly to the paddle, pogies or mittens protect the hands and wrists from chilling wind.
Paddle - Select a sturdy paddle, one made of fiberglass and aluminum. Wood paddles should be constructed with fiberglass reinforced laminated wood. A "T" grip gives better paddle control in whitewater.
Warm Weather Clothing
Hat/Helmet - A hat protects from the sun. Wear a helmet in Class II and above rivers.
Sunglasses - Choose a good pair of neutral density glasses, with straps if necessary.
Shirt - Wearing a shirt reduces the likelihood of sunburn. A cotton shirt "wicks" the water which helps the evaporation process cool the body.

Lifejacket - For the summer choose an open mesh design lifejacket for its ability to breath. Choose a vest type or jacket (Type III) for its comfort.

Swimsuit pants - Light weight pants over the swimsuit are a good idea even in summer. The sun reflecting off the water and the bottom of the boat can quickly bake the legs.

Pouch - For storing valuables including car keys for the shuttle car and money for an emergency phone call.
Layering Your Clothing
Layered clothes insulate better in cool weather than a single garment of the same thickness. Two medium weight sweaters offer more protection than one heavy sweater. Cover the sweaters with a paddling jacket for even more warmth. To trap in additional heat and keep water out, the paddling jacket should fit tightly around the wrists, neck and waist. Layers can be mixed to maximize the strengths of each layer. Some canoeist use a farmer john type wetsuit (no sleeves and legs) for their first layer coupled with a sweater and a paddling jacket on the next layer. This allows the paddler freedom of movement with the wetsuit providing extra protection if a paddler is immersed in the water. Also with layered clothes the paddler can easily adjust his comfort and heat loss by either putting on another layer or taking one off.